Spread out on an oven tray lined with baking paper and roast for 30 minutes, until soft and caramelised. Toss the squash with a teaspoon and a half of oil, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper. Put this in a large bowl and roughly mash. Bake the potato for an hour, until the flesh is soft, then leave to cool a little before peeling you should end up with 350g potato flesh. Serves four.ġ large baking potato (450g) ½ small butternut squash, peeled, trimmed and cut into 2-3cm pieces (340g) 1½ tbsp olive oil Salt and black pepper 160g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1½ tsp caraway seeds, toasted and lightly crushed 20g peeled black garlic, roughly chopped 1½ tbsp picked thyme leaves Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1½ tsp lemon juice, to serve 30g unsalted butter 20g pumpkin seeds, toasted With its clash of orange and black, this is about as autumnal a plateful as they come. These are lovely just as they are, but serve them with a spoonful of soured cream if you want to make the dish a little richer. The dough is very soft and sticky, which is what makes the texture so soft once cooked. I’m not being pedantic in listing the cooked weight for the potato and butternut for this recipe: it’s important to get the proportions right, so the gnocchi are light enough but still hold their shape. Squash gnocchi with caraway and black garlic Top with the rest of the squash, sprinkle with the chopped coriander and serve at once with some yoghurt alongside. To serve, divide three-quarters of the squash between individual bowls and spoon over the chickpea sauce. While they’re cooking, crush a few chickpeas with the back of a spoon, to thicken the mix further. While the squash is roasting, tip the chickpeas, apricots and preserved lemon into the stock left in the pan, bring to a boil on a medium-high heat and cook for about 12 minutes, until the sauce reduces a little and becomes thick and rich. Roast for 20 minutes, until golden-brown and cooked through, then leave to cool. Add two tablespoons of oil, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and some pepper to the bowl, mix to coat, then spread out the squash on an oven tray lined with baking paper. Take the pan off the heat and transfer the squash to a medium bowl, using a slotted spoon. Turn down the heat to medium, cover and leave to simmer for 10 minutes, until almost cooked through. Add the harissa, rose water, stock and 200ml water, bring to a boil, then lay in the squash pieces in a single flat layer. Add the shallots and fry for seven to eight minutes, stirring every so often, until soft and caramelised, then stir in the garlic, spices, half a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, and fry for two minutes longer. In a large saute pan for which you have a lid, heat two tablespoons of oil on a medium-high flame. Serves four.Ħ0ml olive oil 2-3 banana shallots, peeled and chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled and thinly sliced 1 tsp ground cumin 4 whole cardamom pods, crushed to release the seeds, pods discarded Salt and black pepper 2½ tbsp harissa paste ½ tsp rose water 500ml vegetable stock 1 large butternut squash, peeled and cut into 4cm dice (800g) 400g tinned cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed 7 dried apricots, thinly sliced 20g preserved lemon skin, roughly chopped 10g coriander leaves, roughly chopped 150g Greek yoghurt Harissa can be quite fiery, so you may prefer to use a bit less than suggested. If you want to bulk it out, serve with rice. This is a little meal in itself that packs a bit of a punch and a lot of comfort. Braised squash with chickpeas and harissa I’ve chosen butternut for today’s recipes, because it’s by far the most widely available, but use whatever you can get hold of. Even peeled they still have a relative firmness that prevents the flesh from collapsing altogether when cooked. The firmness of butternut, coquina and queen squash, for example, means they hold their shape more reliably, and I often cook them with their skin on, because it’s thin enough to eat. I often use pumpkin and squash interchangeably in my cooking, but there are noticeable differences in texture and sweetness that affect the way they need to be handled. Summer squash – such as courgette and pumpkin – have spongier, more fibrous flesh, so soften a lot when cooked. Winter squash have firm, sweet flesh, and feature in their number the parchment-coloured butternut, the deeper orange coquina and the small, round queen squash, which looks rather like a pumpkin.
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